Sardinia: A Scenic & Unfiltered Italian Escape
Discover stunning beaches, charming towns, and off-the-beaten-path adventures on this Mediterranean island.
This Italian island, second in size only to its big sister Sicily, sits off the west coast of the mainland in the Mediterranean Sea. Sardinia surprised me with its understated, unfussy charm—except, of course, for the ultra-luxurious Costa Smeralda, a playground for yachting celebrities. Beyond this glitzy enclave, the island felt raw and unspoiled in the best possible way.
We spent a long Easter weekend road-tripping through the north, starting and ending in Alghero. In just four and a half days, we got a taste of its historic cities, rugged coastline, vineyards, small towns, and lush interior. While the water was still a bit too cool for swimming, we couldn’t resist visiting some of Sardinia’s breathtaking beaches—without the summer crowds.
North Sardinia Itinerary overview
Day 1: Arrive to Alghero. Stop in Sassari for Lunch. Drive to first accommodation, Tenuta Petra Bianca, for sunset wine and dinner.
Day 2: Drive to Palau and take a ferry to La Maddalena; Drive to Caprera Island; Dinner in Palau.
Day 3: Drive Costa Smeralda to Porto Cervo. Drive to Bosa for lunch and exploration. Drive to Alghero and check in to Casa VillaMarina. Alghero for sunset cocktails and dinner.
Day 4: Alghero in the morning and in the afternoon La Pelosa beach in Stintino.
Day 5: Breakfast and Bike the VillaMarina Vineyards; lunch in Alghero. Fly out that afternoon.
WHERE TO STAY IN NORTHERN SARDINIA
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Tenuta Petra Bianca
Clean and simple rooms, the real sell is when you open up your curtains. This quaint b&b is poised in the middle of an organic farm which includes vineyards that produce delicious organic wines. Pro tip: A glass of the Vermentino pairs perfectly with an epic sunset from the front deck. Located only 7 minutes from Palau, it’s a perfect location if you plan on visiting La Maddalena (see below).
IMPORTANT: Please do not miss this Tenuta Petra Bianca Restaurant. What an experience! Unbeknownst to us, the night we arrived was the inaugural night of the dinner offering. Angela and Mirko, who used to own a restaurant in northern Italy, were partnering with their pals at Petra Bianca to deliver high caliber food made with the freshest Sardinian ingredients. Each plate was prepared and served with such care and pride and it was felt.
sella&mosca Casa VillaMarina
Friendly and tranquil stay at this bed and breakfast on the Sella & Mosca estate and winery. It’s close enough (only a 15 minute drive) from the activity of Alghero town center, but also it has enough distance to feel like a countryside retreat. The room was spacious and the beds were super comfortable (and I’m not one who normally comments on beds). Wine tours are also available as is the opportunity to enjoy a glass in the spacious courtyard. We also loved riding bikes alongside the vineyards.
Sardinia Highlights: Activities, Sights & Hidden Gems
what to see and do on your trip to the Italian Island
La Maddalena & Caprera Island
La Maddalena is both a town and the gateway to the stunning Maddalena Archipelago, a collection of 62 small islands off Sardinia’s northeast coast. Many of these islands are only accessible by boat, making a boat tour a popular activity. Since we visited early in the season, tour schedules didn’t align, but I did correspond with Natour Sardinia, who were incredibly friendly and helpful.
Where to Eat & Drink on La Maddalena
I Vitelloni – A funky little café and bar where we stumbled upon fresh salads, panini, and Campari spritzes.
Dolci Distrazioni Gelateria – Incredible pistachio gelato. Enough said.
Caprera Island
From La Maddalena, we drove across a small bridge to Caprera Island—a wild, mostly untouched space with scenic trails, picnic spots, and breathtaking beaches. We parked and followed a coastal path to La Serena Beach, where we had the entire stretch of sand to ourselves. I believe the phrase “hidden gem” is often overused in travel writing, but in this case it applies!
Bosa: A Postcard-Perfect Town
Bosa is breathtaking, especially when approaching from the mountain roads above. The view of colorful houses stacked against the hillside, with the river below, is worth the trip alone. I wasn’t sure if we’d have time to visit, but I’m so glad we did. Lunch at Locanda di Corte was a highlight. The food embraced traditional Sardinian ingredients with a refined yet unpretentious touch. The courtyard setting was idyllic too.
La Pelosa
La Pelosa Beach, Stintino
About an hour’s drive from Alghero, La Pelosa Beach boasts crystal-clear water and plenty of spots to perch, whether on the sand or grassy patches. If visiting in peak summer, note that reservations are required.
Explore Alghero
One of the island’s most popular and historically significant coastal towns, known for its Catalan heritage, charming old town, and beautiful seaside views. I definitely recommend grabbing a refreshment at the edge of old town to watch a beautiful sunset over the water. Other Ideas for food and beverage:
Café Latino – A lovely spot for a coffee or drink along the port.
Prosciutteria Sant Miguel and Il Pesce D’Oro were both recommended to us, though we weren’t able to squeeze in on the holiday weekend.
Alghero Easter Sunday Procession
Even if you’re not Catholic, this tradition is beautiful to witness. A statue of Mary is carried up one street, Jesus up another, and they meet at the waterfront, bowing to each other before a celebratory gun salute. The crowd then follows in procession through town, returning to the cathedral for mass. Being part of this local celebration was a special experience.
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