A Winter Weekend in Maastricht
Discover the Untapped Charm of This Dutch University Town
View from the St. Servaasbrug Bridge
My husband and I temporarily relocated to the Netherlands at the end of 2024. We decided to spend a winter weekend in the historic Dutch city of Maastricht. Cradled between Germany and Belgium and cut in half by the River Meuse (Maas in Dutch), Maastricht is the capital of the Netherlands’ Limburg region.
Though it has enough of a city sensibility, it is still small enough in size to be walkable. You could cover a lot of ground on a day trip, we opted for an overnight stay since we wanted to enjoy the Christmas lights. Plus, I always love to capture a city first thing in the morning light — and since the winter days are short I didn’t need to get out the door until 8:30 a.m. (In fact, many of the breakfast spots and coffee shops on my list didn’t open until 10:00 a.m. on Sunday!)
Even with the holiday crowd, I found the city clean and friendly. Below I break down recommendations on where to stay, what to see and where to eat in Maastricht.
WHERE TO STAY IN MAASTRICHT
For no fuss affordability and convenience…
Townhouse Design Hotel & Spa
Located in the Wyck district, it’s a short walk to the river and the train station. The staff was very friendly and the cafe area downstairs is open 24/7 with complimentary coffee. Though the hallways leading to the room felt a bit dated, the room was clean and comfortable.
For a little more luxe…
Also in the Wyck district, this modern and sleek boutique luxury hotel looked very inviting. I stopped in to have a look around the lobby, the founder’s bar and the restaurant below, Harry’s, a brasserie that’s been around since 1912.
WHAT TO SEE IN MAASTRICHT
Maastricht is divided into 7 districts including: Binnenstad (the historic city center), Jeker Quarter, Céramique, Sphinx Quarter and Wyck. (The Visit Maastricht website has a really helpful colored map for all of the districts!)
Mrkt Square
Home to City Hall and a nice entry point to the city. If you visit this square on Wednesdays and Fridays you’ll find a vendor market. When we arrived on Saturday morning there was a small flea market.
Bookstore Dominicanen
Just around the corner from Market Square, you’ll find this 13th century cathedral-turned-bookstore. It’s been 200 years since the gothic structure has served as a house of worship, but it’s only been home to indie books since 2006. Maastricht’s own roaster, Blanche Dael Coffee lovers, serves hot drinks and lunch that you can enjoy in the former altar area.
Vrijthof Square
A lively and historic plaza, home to landmarks like the St. Servatius Church and is known for its vibrant cafes, festivals, and cultural events throughout the year. *During the holiday season the city’s main Christmas Market is set up here, complete with ferris wheel and ice skating rink!
Basilica of Our Lady
We were lucky enough to take a peek in the church just as the youth symphony was starting a concert! The nearby streets and square offer several cafes and restaurants with outdoor seating as well.
Bisschopsmolen (Bishop’s mill) + Bakery
Just around the corner, you’ll find the oldest working water mill in the country! After you watch the water wheel turn, pop next door for a piece of Vlaai (sweet tart), a regional specialty.
Helpoort (Hell’s gate)
13th-century gate from the original city wall. The oldest city gate in the Netherlands. We just strolled by the outside on our way to…
The St. Servaasbrug Bridge
Take the oldest bridge in the Netherlands (are you sensing a theme here?) across to the Wyck District. In addition to boutiques and shops, you’ll find cafes and restaurants, two of which I recommend below!
Sphinx Passage
The Sphinx district was once home to Maastricht’s major ceramics industry from the mid-1830s through the early 2000s. The area has undergone major reinvention in recent history. This 120-meter stretch of passageway between the Eiffel building and the Pathé Cinema pays tribute to the industry’s history and impact. From delicate porcelain china to toilet bowls, they produced it all! The exhibition tells the city’s ceramics story via nearly 30,000 tiles, which is pretty impressive.
Lumière Cinema & Restaurant Cafe
Last but not least, is this magical movie house and restaurant. I wish we had time to catch a flick. I spoke with Marij, a friendly volunteer who told me the cinema is housed in the former energy plant of the Sphinx factory. She also told me two female architects brilliantly reimagined the space that now includes a restaurant overlooking the water and six film screens. Not to mention, the cinema-inspired decor was spot on without being kitschy.
WHERE TO EAT
‘t Wycker Cabinet
We walked into this busy spot without a reservation right when a cozy window table opened up. Good fortune notwithstanding, this meal was a highlight of our getaway. I loved the dimly lit cozy bistro vibes and the delicious though not overwhelmingly extensive menu options. We opted for a french onion soup (it was cold and rainy) and tried the pasta special of a ragu with boar. The restaurant is also open for breakfast and lunch.
Cafe Zondag
Zondag (Sunday in Dutch) was the perfect stop for a Sunday morning coffee and toastie. I has read it’s a popular spot, so I went for 10 and it filled up. The cafe is also open for lunch as well as for drinks and tapas in the evening.
Lumière Grand Café
As previously noted, the film-inspired decor in the industrial space was thoughtfully designed. Plus, it has a prime spot on the river in the Sphinx District. Depending on the season, there’s a nice outdoor terrace on the water.
Vlaai, traditional pie of Limburg
OTHER ITEMS OF NOTE
Magical Maastricht
If you happen to be in the area in winter time, the city really dresses up nicely for the holidays. In addition to the main Christmas Market in Vrijthof Square, you’ll find even the smallest cobblestone corners and streets lit up with lights. While there were plenty of people enjoying the festivities, it didn’t feel unbearably crowded.
Shopping
There are plenty of galleries and concept shops to stroll through and enjoy. If you are into vintage or thrift shops, here are a few of note: We-Ar Vintage (2 locations - one is in the Rechtstraat in Wyck), Giensch and Vintage Island.
A few other items for the “next trip” list…
Bonnefanten Museum
Renowned fine art museum showcasing a diverse collection of contemporary and historical works.
Centre Ceramique
A modern cultural center offering a library, exhibitions, and events.
Underground caves
Fascinating network of historic tunnels, originally created for mining, now open for tours showcasing art, history, and unique formations.
